Phnom Penh
By Evi Goossens, a travel storyteller, certified tour guide, and photographer from The Netherlands. Updated November 2024
Reading time: 8 min
The 5 things you must do in Phnom Penh
Before arriving in the capital of Cambodia, I recommend taking some time to read up on the city’s history. It is both impressive and harrowing. Understanding the history helps to explain why the atmosphere in the city still feels the way it does. During the Vietnam War, Cambodia was also heavily bombed by the Americans, often in secret, as part of their strategy against the communist Viet Cong. Many Cambodians suffered greatly as a result. Besides the widespread destruction, the bombings forced many to flee their villages, with many seeking refuge in Phnom Penh.
Pol Pot, the leader of the Khmer Rouge, came to power in Cambodia in 1975. He was influenced not only by the violence and chaos of the time but also by his ideological vision to completely transform the country. Pol Pot aimed to turn Cambodia into an agrarian utopia, inspired by extreme Maoist and communist ideas. On April 17, 1975, Phnom Penh fell into the hands of the Khmer Rouge. What followed was one of the most brutal episodes in modern history. All 2 million residents of Phnom Penh were forced to abandon their homes and march to the countryside. Men, women, and children walked for days, often without food or water, only to face even harsher conditions in rural labor camps. There, many succumbed to starvation, exhaustion, or execution.
The Khmer Rouge, under Pol Pot’s leadership, caused immense devastation in Cambodia. In just four years, more than 1.7 million people—roughly a quarter of the population—died from starvation, forced labor, and systematic killings. In Phnom Penh, once a bustling urban center, the scars of this dark history remain palpable. Walking through the wide streets, you can almost imagine the millions of people who were forced to flee the city in terror, unaware of the horrors that awaited them.
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| TABLE OF CONTENTS
S21 Prison
Killing Fields
Sunset Boat Tour
Cambodia National History Museum
Mama Wong's Dumpling and Noodle House
Where to sleep/eat/go out
S21 Prison
As mentioned earlier, Phnom Penh has a rich yet harrowing history. If you’ve done some preliminary reading and want to dive deeper into Cambodia’s past, I recommend starting your visit at the S21 Prison (Tuol Sleng) and taking an audio tour. Make sure to arrive early to avoid the crowds.
This building, originally a French colonial school, was repurposed by the Khmer Rouge under Pol Pot into a center for torture and interrogation of those suspected of opposing the regime. Now known as the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, it provides a harrowing yet essential insight into the atrocities of the Cambodian genocide.
If you begin your visit in the morning, you’ll spend about 1.5 to 2 hours listening to the audio recordings and exploring the site at your own pace. Afterward, you can continue to the Killing Fields just outside the city. Many tours combine visits to both locations, and your tuk-tuk driver can take you to whichever site you prefer to start with.
Killing fields
After their time at the S21 prison, many victims were transported to the Killing Fields outside Phnom Penh. While much of the original infrastructure no longer exists—having been destroyed or dismantled after the genocide—the site offers profound information about what happened to the victims after leaving the prison, the mass graves, and the broader context of the genocide.
Be prepared for an emotionally heavy day. The information you’ll receive is both confronting and important. Remembering the victims and reflecting on this dark chapter in history is crucial for ensuring that such atrocities never happen again.
Sunset boat tour
The Mekong River flows through Phnom Penh, serving as a lifeline for many countries, including Cambodia. Every evening, as the sun sets, you can purchase a ticket for a sunset boat tour along the river. Reservations are usually unnecessary, as these local boats are rarely overcrowded. Once on the top deck, you can order a drink and enjoy a short cruise around the Mekong River while taking in the breathtaking sunset.
Cambodia National History Museum
If you’re still eager to learn more about history, a visit to the Cambodia National History Museum is a great option. Here, you’ll find artifacts from the Khmer Empire, including statues from Angkor Wat and other unique art pieces. The interior of the museum is impressive, but the exterior is equally stunning—a temple-like structure painted in deep red, adorned with large statues.
If you’re short on time in Phnom Penh, this museum can be skipped. However, if your schedule allows, it’s definitely worth a visit.
Mama Wong's Dumpling and Noodle House
While not a sightseeing spot, Mama Wong is one of the best places to eat in Phnom Penh. Located in a charming neighborhood full of small alleys, bars, and other delightful restaurants, it’s a must-visit for food lovers. Be sure to make a reservation or arrive early, as it’s quite popular.
Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/QpMotbeHU57y4FXS6
Where to stay
In Phnom Penh, there are several hostel chains, and one of them is Onederz. This was a great hostel. It’s conveniently located near the Mekong River, and they organize various tours around Phnom Penh. You can also get a SIM card through the hostel, and they arrange bus trips to other parts of the country. On the rooftop, there’s a pool where you can relax. This is where most backpackers stay in Phnom Penh, so it’s a great place to meet fellow travelers.
Book your hostel: https://www.hostelworld.com
As I mentioned before, Mama Wong Dumpling and Noodle House is a fantastic restaurant with incredibly tasty food! Highly recommended.
Where to eat
As a solo female traveler, I felt less safe in Phnom Penh. I made sure not to go out alone after dark. However, when I was with a group, I didn’t feel unsafe. If you’re with a fun group of people, exploring the neighborhood around Mama Dumpling can be enjoyable. There are several bars and cozy eateries in the area.
