Travel diary: Ha Giang Loop
DAY 1
In the past, we always went on holiday with the camper, traveling to Spain, Italy, and France. Dad would drive continuously in the camper, so for us, it was just one night's sleep to, for example, Spain. I used to sleep in the lower bunk of the camper and could sleep best while we were on the road.
However, this was not the case last night...
On our way to Ha Giang, we had a 5-hour bus ride and were scheduled to arrive at our hostel at 2:00 am. I lay awake from 10:00 pm to 1:00 am. Then, at 1:30 am, we were transferred from our bus to a smaller bus, half-standing, half-on top of each other, to the hostel.
We arrived exhausted at our hostel at 2:00 am, where we could sleep for another 4 hours until breakfast.
After breakfast, we had to ride on the back of our easyrider (a man who drives the motorbike for us). Until lunchtime, everyone had an easyrider because there was a road check. Westerners are not allowed to drive a motorbike in Asia without permission and can be fined for doing so. After lunch, Ruud, Rens, and I were allowed to take a test ride on this scooter/motorbike before heading into the mountains. We were three of the 12 people who were going to ride this tour ourselves. The group consisted of about 50/60 people, and 12 of us were going to ride the tour ourselves, and one of them was a woman, and that was me!
At first, it took some getting used to with this motorbike. I wasn't doing so well with the shifting and didn't know if I should climb or descend the mountain in 2nd or 3rd gear.
The road was not great in all places. Sometimes loose stones on the road for a few meters. It was quite difficult to steer. But the view did not disappoint!!
As a friend of mine said, "like you could encounter a dinosaur at every corner," it was so beautiful, and this is just the beginning.
We rode up the mountain, then down again, but also through local villages. Where the children were waiting for you to give them a high five as you drove by. It was strange to see how these people live.
In wooden huts with children playing in the streets or helping out in the fields. I even saw a child who I think had just started walking and was already carrying things. That is a very big contrast compared to Europe.
Our group consisted solely of French people, and then us, 3 Dutch people. Maybe the tour guides looked at the flags of our countries and thought these people could be placed together.
After the loop, we ended up at a homestay where everyone will sleep tonight. Everyone sleeps in a mosquito net, and the floor is made of bamboo, so you can even look down from the top floor wich is pretty cool!
We just had a typical Vietnamese dinner, and chatted with the French, British, and someone from New Zealand. We Sang karaoke together for a bit but went to bed early because tomorrow will be another busy day!
And of course, driving ourselves!!
DAY 2
Today, we woke up to the sound of rain. Fear crept over me. I have to hop on that motorcycle and drive through the mountains. Nervously, I sit down for breakfast. Rain gear on and onto the motorbike.
I was the slowest of the group. While riding, I kept thinking about the words of mom and dad.
Mom: you don't have to prove yourself; if you don't want to, there's probably something they can arrange. Dad: you only make this journey once in your life, Evi, you can do this.
Both are right, but what do I want now, and which choice will make me happy? Meanwhile, I was almost crying as I climbed the mountain, thinking back to two years ago when I was afraid to even drive a car, ultimately couldn't ride my scooter anymore, and even became scared when sitting next to someone in the car. That was because I had an accident in 2021 and ended up walking around with a severe concussion and fear of traffic. I wanted to prove to myself from two years ago that I can do it. That the fear is behind me. Meanwhile, all I can think about is how glad I'll be when the tour is over. This isn't good and is a waste of money and experience. knew the roads would get even more challenging after lunch, and with the rain, I only got more scared.
During the first stop, I indicated that I wanted an easyrider (someone who drives the motorcycle while I sit on the back), and it was quickly arranged. I had to pay an extra 600,000 dong, and then I could ride on the back after lunch. It felt like a relief but also like giving up. Everyone reassured me that it wasn't.After lunch, I got on the back of the motorcycle. My easyrider checked if everything was okay with my motorcycle (which already gave me a very reassuring feeling) and up the mountain again. Riding on the back of the motorcycle made me feel like I was sitting on the back of my grandmother's bike when she picked me up from school. But grandma had tied a cushion to the luggage rack. That wasn't the case now, hahaha. Now you have to surrender yourself and trust the other person. That was a bit difficult because I like it when I have control.
The sections we rode that afternoon, I really couldn't/wouldn't have done myself. They were working on the road everywhere. Rain, riding over loose rocks, and along a ledge. Nope, not for me. There was even a section where my easyrider shouldn't have moved 10 centimeters to the right, because then I would have fallen down. But these people are pros.
The views were fantastic again. Now that I was on the back, I could enjoy them more. Once down, we were allowed on a boat that went through a lake in the mountains, and this was fantastic!! It started to get dark, so we had to hurry back up where we saw the border between China and Vietnam. I had seen enough of China, as there were already a few thousand Chinese tourists down by the boat.
Arriving in the town, the boys and girls had to split up and sleep in other hotels because the hotel was too full. As the only Dutch person, I got to sleep in a room with the 7 French girls. Relaxing on my bed, as hard as wood, getting ready, and then walking around the town with the girls before dinner.
After dinner, we went straight downstairs where the bar was. We started with Jägerbombs, then beer, shots, and much more.
Sang karaoke songs in English but of course also in French with the French girls. It was a super, super fun evening!! We were there until the end with a small group. Walked back to the hotel with the girls and fell asleep like a block on my hard bed.
DAY 3
I slept well in my hard bed. I think it was due to the amount of alcohol. Woke up to the French girls, feeling a bit disoriented—where am I, and who are these people? Probably the alcohol talking. Splashed some water on my face, and the hangover was already half gone.Took a stroll around the local market. Facetimed my brother, because I saw he was still at a after-party back home. It was nighttime in the Netherlands. Got on the motorbike and back up the mountain. Beautiful view after another. Sometimes, it left me speechless. It was like Pandora from those Avatar films. Breathtaking. Stopped a few times for photos and a break from the motorbike because holy shit, sometimes these roads hurt your bum.
We visited a town with an old French fort, again overrun with tourists. Then stopped at another viewpoint where lots of children were sitting. Sometimes it's strange to see children taking care of other children. Even the youngest, maybe not even 6 years old, taking care of a baby right along the edge of the mountain.
We rode through villages with ramshackle houses of wood and metal, where you could still see the old people working and toiling. Carrying a backpack full of things from the land up and down the mountain. I even saw them building their own house with what I think was cement. You can tell these people appreciate the little things in life. Picking flowers or giving high fives to the tourists on motorbikes along the road. It's also strange to see them living in shacks but holding an iPhone in their hands. Of course, not everyone.
We only had a few kilometers to go when the road suddenly closed, and we had to take another route. First, we passed some beautiful rice fields where I swear I could smell the rice. Don't know if it was just in my head, but I really thought I smelled the rice. Rice fields here, mountains there, we rode through the countryside on a kind of paved bike path. Until this bike path turned into an unpaved, off-road motocross road. I don't know how else to describe it. I arrived with my easyrider at the spot where 6 people and their easyriders had already arrived. The Vietnamese easyriders looked at the road and down, and were silent for a moment. I thought they weren't really going to do this. Maybe the easyriders had the same thought, but the first one went down. Then the second, third, and so on, until my easyrider and I were up.
I even made the remark that I was going to walk, but no no, we were going to do this with the motorbike. I held my breath and held on tight to my easyrider. Everyone in the group held onto the motorcycle, but I held onto this little Vietnamese guy for dear life. The road was steep downhill with loose stones and rocks, so I was relieved when I finally saw the paved road again. After this dangerous part, we stopped at a river for a moment. The French immediately came up to me and asked what I would have done if I had had to ride that part myself.
The answer is simple: I wouldn't have.
The last part of the tour was coming up. And I have to say, I didn't mind that very much. My bum, knees, neck were hurting quite a bit. We arrived at the accommodation where we had left our big bags. I was relieved that I had come through the loop safely and in one piece, and that I didn't have to sit on a motorcycle anymore.
I took a quick shower and had some food, which made me feel good to be clean and have fresh clothes. However, there was a little misunderstanding about the bus we needed to take and the time of departure. The rest of the group had already left in a minivan to the big bus station, leaving us with no other option but to return on a motorcycle. With my big backpack between the legs of an easyrider and my own backpack on my back, we went up and down the mountain again, but now in the dark with no protection. I held onto my easyrider for dear life, but I also realized that these moments are part of the adventure, and I had to trust that everything would be all right and give up control, which is something I find difficult to do. Finally, we arrived at the bus stop and boarded the night bus to Cat Ba Island, which is an 11-hour journey. I am going to close my eyes for a bit now.
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